Palais Galliera 19.10.2024 – 10.03.2025
If Mr. Stephen Jones is a legend among milliners, this exhibition explains why!
Curated with love and respect, it is flawless. The exhibition takes us on a personal and professional journey, spanning years from Liverpool to Paris, from his earliest inspirations to today’s atelier. The passion and craftsmanship, the attention to inspiration, and the sheer imaginative rollercoaster of creation are displayed before our eyes. The pieces speak to the viewer as works of art—some tiny and detailed, others swooping and architectural, some flamboyant and extroverted, others subtle and discreet.
On our journey, we follow London’s club life, Boy George, Kim Bowen, PX, and the inventiveness and originality of both the underground fashion scene and the gradual emergence of London designers like Vivienne Westwood. Then, there was the explosion of new designers in Paris during the ’70s and ’80s, when Stephen found more creative opportunities with Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, and the maverick of the time, Jean Paul Gaultier. Stephen could adapt, interpret, switch, and change with each designer, interpreting their moods and seasonal inspirations. He could fringe a fez, create frozen water, or simply crown a Madonna.
The exhibition is curated with an eye for communicating Stephen’s place in fashion history and his deep understanding of how millinery fits into the broader fashion narrative. In one section, Stephen’s creations are placed in juxtaposition with original archival examples—a Phrygian cap from the French Revolution, a Schiaparelli confection, or a Jacques Fath chapeau de style. Captions and notes throughout the installation are informative yet personal. This isn’t dry historical data—it’s the story of a man’s journey from his earliest mentors to his current position as a unique milliner in contemporary fashion, with skills and aesthetics that are rare in today’s world of commercial hats.
We discover that a hat may be minuscule or a sweeping sculpture of fabric and flowers. We witness the intensely detailed alongside the simple and dramatic. It’s all about a vast range of proportions and creative impulses. The exhibition also features Mr. Jones talking about his work, demonstrating some of the intricacies of his hats, and discussing his creative process. He balances passion with professionalism, showing how his pragmatic approach harmonizes creative research with the testing and balancing of each piece. The outcome appears effortless, but it is often the result of intense analysis.
He stands as a shining example and beacon for young milliners everywhere, demonstrating that success is not just about commerciality but also vision—and the ability to collaborate with other creatives while respecting the art and craft of one’s chosen métier.
The exhibition is not small. It tells its story slowly and carefully. After many hats and mood installations—which are truly magical and take time to absorb—we turn a corner to find complete looks from many designers, though still only a glimpse of the countless designers Stephen has worked with.
Throughout the exhibition, the lighting is discreet, focused on the objects—from show cards to paper patterns to complete looks. Music sets the scene, conjuring up decades of Stephen’s work. The team at the museum—Miren Arzalluz, Marie-Laure Gutton, and Alice Freudiger—has worked magic with Stephen Jones himself to offer us an immersive millinery experience. This exhibition truly belongs in Paris, despite Stephen’s Britishness. His work with Dior and other great houses is unique, and his admiration for millinery heritage is evident. Madame Paulette of Mizia Bricard, as well as his mentor Shirley Hex, would be proud of him.
As visitors to the private view progressed to drinks and chatter on the terrace, gazing at the Eiffel Tower like a shimmering mirage in the clouds, the conversation was alive with happiness for Stephen and the exchange of many anecdotes—a tribute to a man who not only has legions of fans but is also deeply loved throughout the fashion world.
Summing up is no one’s favorite job, but in the case of Stephen Jones: Chapeau d’Artiste, it’s simple—go!
