The very act of entering the second headquarters, after Rue Spontini, of the Yves Saint Laurent haute couture establishment, is magical. Up the steps and to the left, into a salon with golden caryatids and mirrors, one is immediately enchanted.
The introduction to the exhibition has one truly special element. Linked to flowers are the designs Saint Laurent imagined for the Bal des Têtes, given by Parisian socialite, interior creator (never designer), and general man-about-town and gossip, Baron Alexis de Redé. His memoirs are fabulous if you can afford them, in either English or French. Anyway, the point is a complete row of drawing after drawing of Saint Laurent’s extravagant headdresses and confections — certainly not hats. There are some other introductory pieces, but this is the key highlight.
Upon entering the exhibition, it’s obvious that the selection and choices are far superior to the previous exhibition on transparencies. There isn’t a single dull piece to be seen, and the intense embroidery and patchwork up close in the salons are breathtaking. There are sprigs of lily of the valley, pansies, blossoms invented by the designers, and tropical blooms like hibiscus or bougainvillaea, vivid enough to seem as if they could be picked right from the garment.
The exhibition radiates happiness, especially on a rainy, miserable day. It speaks of spring and summer, of warmth and flowers opening in full bloom. It’s, in fact, a fashion bouquet.
The biography of Saint Laurent, shown in film form, is always a joy to watch, and the clips featuring flowers that complement the exhibition enhance our understanding of these static pieces. Like all great fashion, movement adds grace, charm, impact, or drama, making the narrative clearer when paraded or even simply worn.
This exhibition originally came from the Musée Saint Laurent in Marrakesh, and it brings sunlight and warmth into the rooms. From drifting silk mousselines to crisp silks, it’s a wonderful display.
My guests at the viewing had never been to the museum before and were entranced by Saint Laurent’s office — a creative space filled with pens, artificial flowers, sketches, samples, folders, and even a dog bowl awaiting the faithful Moujik. The ghosts never leave this place, and the privilege of wandering through just part of the building is magical. Visit Les Fleurs and witness the impact of the designer’s vast output. Look after look after look, it is spellbinding.
