Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2025 show occurred beneath the illuminated Eiffel Tower, an iconic backdrop that underscored the brand’s legacy of Parisian sophistication. The collection, designed by Anthony Vaccarello, drew inspiration from the structured power dressing of the 1980s, emphasizing sharp tailoring, oversized shoulders, and vibrant colour choices.
The opening looks to set the tone with precisely tailored blazers featuring pronounced, exaggerated shoulders. These were paired with pencil skirts that extended just below the knee, maintaining a strict yet refined silhouette. Wool and cashmere coats in deep black, charcoal, and navy featured architectural construction, emphasizing clean lines and subtle volume. Some coats included structured peplum details, adding a dynamic contrast to the otherwise streamlined tailoring.
A selection of thigh-length jackets in bold shades of tangerine, fuchsia, and deep teal introduced a shift from neutral tones. These jackets had a boxy, slightly oversized fit, cinched at the waist with slim leather belts, creating a sculptural silhouette reminiscent of Saint Laurent’s signature 1980s aesthetic. The interplay between masculine and feminine tailoring was evident throughout the collection, with long, double-breasted wool coats layered over sheer lace dresses, adding a juxtaposition of softness against the rigid outerwear.
Evening Wear carried a sense of drama, with voluminous silk gowns in rich jewel tones such as emerald green, sapphire blue, and ruby red. A standout piece was a floor-length black velvet gown with an exaggerated high neckline and ruched shoulders, playing with proportions while maintaining a sleek, uninterrupted silhouette. Another featured a sheer cobalt blue lace dress adorned with subtle crystal embellishments, worn over a structured slip, emphasizing the contrast between transparency and opacity. The collection’s exploration of texture extended to metallic-threaded silk gowns that shimmered under the runway lights, creating a subtle interplay of light and movement.
A recurring motif was using high-neck blouses paired with sharply tailored trousers. Some of these blouses were crafted from sheer chiffon, featuring delicate pleating and tied neck bows, lending a fluidity to the otherwise rigid tailoring. Others incorporated structured ruffles, adding volume without overwhelming the silhouette. Trousers ranged from wide-leg styles that fell just above the ankle to slim-cut designs tailored to precision and worn with pointed-toe pumps.
Outerwear remained a focal point, with military-inspired coats featuring oversized lapels and double-button closures. Some coats incorporated cape-like structures, with fabric draping over the shoulders and extending down the back in a nod to traditional Parisian couture. Leather trench coats, finished in high-shine black and deep oxblood, were styled with matching leather gloves, reinforcing the collection’s emphasis on polished, statement outerwear.
Accessories complemented the powerful silhouettes with oversized gold earrings, structured leather handbags with sculptural hardware, and sleek, elongated sunglasses. Thigh-high leather boots with stiletto heels were prominent, often paired with mid-length skirts or slim trousers to enhance the elongated effect.
Bella Hadid’s return to the runway was a defining moment. She closed the show in a striking cobalt blue lace gown with a sculpted silhouette, jewelled neckline, and exaggerated shoulders. The transparency of the lace, balanced with structured underlayers, encapsulated the collection’s central themes of strength and sensuality.
Fashionable attendees included Kate Moss, Zoë Kravitz, and Charli XCX, reflecting Saint Laurent’s broad cultural appeal.
The collection maintained a strict palette, allowing the focus to remain on form and construction. The balance between rigid tailoring and fluid draping, combined with rich fabric choices and a strong emphasis on shoulders, created a unified vision that reinforced Saint Laurent’s signature aesthetic.
