Hair – described as “one of the defining characteristics of mammals.” Today, that reigns true for women all over the world. It has molded women from an infant age to now, identifying them as one thing or another. It holds power in ways many can’t fathom. Power to stand out against societal beauty standards, to uplift themselves and others, and to take back what being a woman truly means. Society notices women taking hold of that power and transforming their identity through hair. However, the journey to own their identities through this defining characteristic took a few decades to establish.
Since the dawn of time, women have had to be feminine archetypes with long, flowy hair and statuette to remain youthful. False archetypes have led to many becoming tied down to those perspectives when no one fits that bill, even Béyonce. The oppression women have felt surrounding their tresses has transformed into the politics of hair. Politics of hair: social and cultural significance of hairstyle, which used to express and protest beliefs. African American women in the US have laid a foundation to speak out and protest against corporations and policies discriminating against their free will to wear their natural hair in a preferred state or style. How did the world get to a place where there is intolerance for women of color’s hair?
Dating back to colonialism and slavery, in Good Morning America’s segment on black hair, “This is the Story of Black Hair,” Emma Dabiri, Irish writer andbroadcaster, highlights when the first colonials came to visit Africa, they noted African women and men’s hair were as “neat.” It was not loud or unprofessional and was too colorful but well-kept. Until the Transatlantic slave trade, did colonials incorporate hatred and jealousy amongst the very same people they enslaved? Categorizing hair to be similar to animals because they felt it imitated wool. The start of many derogatory terms and physically harmful acts those enslaved carried into generations of women, children, and men hating their hair because of manipulation to believe they would never fit into a world they differed from. Due to contrary beliefs, African people and their descendants are quite prideful in the journey of what grows beautifully out of their heads.
Hair plays an -essential part in African culture and identity. Hair, known as the crown, interprets social and marital status, age, and religious beliefs. Many parts of Africa have different ways of styling. In Nigeria, hairstyles are popular due to complex and intricate braids, twists, and knots. J.D. ‘Okhai Ojeikere, a Nigerian photographer, created a Hairstyle Series focusing on Nigerian hairstyles. The Hairstyle Series is a series of 20,000 negatives and 1,000 prints to document Nigerian hairstyling, showing social structures and a taste of the Nigerian people.
“Beginning in the 1950s, he produced an impressive portfolio of two thousand negatives documenting how women styled their hair into monumental headdresses.” MetMuseum.org. Ojeikere captured Nigerian social and cultural life through focused black-and-white images. Emphasizing the artistic forms of Nigerian hair design – Ojeikere carefully showed the collaboration between the stylist, model, and photographer. Ojeikere pivots his camera to highlight the hairstyle, and the background comes into view later. In one photo, he shows how detailed an afro puff style stole the beauty from whatever was happening in front of the girl. Her multiple puffs, ranging from small to large, showed how much care her stylist took to create and complete the design. Ojeikere realized “the art of Nigerian styling was evolving into multiple layers of creativity.” Blafferartmuseum.org
The thing about hair is that it touches cultures from all over. Women from multiple societies and traditions share parallel rituals for the significant mane. African and Native cultures share similarities when wearing braids or tying up their hair for the day. Native Americans pull their strength from their locs. It’s a source of spirituality that Natives connect with, using their hair as a guide to lead them in their journeys. Growing out their length is important because they identify with longer hair. With Braids, you are known as Native. With a haircut, you are known or could pass as another race.” Professor of Ojibwe and author, trainer, and speaker Dr. Anton Treuer told PBS in the documentary “Native American Hair and its Cultural and Spiritual Importance.” Navajos/ Indigenous people of the Southwestern part of the US share that tying up your hair is a crucial way to start the day. It’s tied into a Tssiiyééł- Navajo Bun to keep thoughts in Jacqueline Keeler – Navajo order and plan for the day. Former Miss Navajo Nation 2003-4, Marla Billey Diné explained her grandmother’s advice regarding hair.
“Never leave your hair out or stringy; your thoughts can be all over the place.” Billey Diné stated to tourists at the MIAC. Navajo hair bun represents a Diné woman; her body is sacred, and it holds her knowledge and thoughts. Allowing people to take care of their hair is vital, too. It’s a form of protecting their spirit. Ray Garcia, San Felipe Pueblo, says, “When the hair is long, they can count on their hands how many people have taken care of it.” Men usually only allow the sister or mother to brush and tie up their hair. While Native Americans focus on the spiritual connection of hair, Asian cultures rely on hair for rituals and health. Hair is related to agriculture because of crop fields. Growing out longer hair expresses excellent etiquette and that you are well cared for. In Latin communities like the Oaxaca, women braid their hair with ribbons for celebrations.
To the Oaxaca, it’s about “honoring Saints at celebrations.” Vogue Style, The Oaxaca Way. Danié Gómez Ortigoza, a Mexican-American multimedia artist, says braiding hair is “an extension of the soul.” In Arabian culture, women have more curly, thick hair that they tend to straighten due to the pressure of fitting in. “Arab hair textures don’t all fit into one mold, Middle. Eastern women cover an expansive range, from having silky, fine, straight tresses, to soft and wavy hair, or somewhere in the spectrum of thick curls coils.” –Hadear, Beautycon. For women of color, hair is not just hair; it’s a part of who they are and where they come from. It is crucial to understand the ways and meanings of WOC and how they want to show up in the world.
In a TED Talk with Dr. Johanna Lukate called The Psychology of Black Hair at Cambridge University, Lukate discusses the state of mind many WOC feel when navigating a world that constantly judges them as different. Women are trudging through the narrative, marking their beauty standards regardless of creed and uplifting themselves and their culture to stand out and take pride in their heritage. No matter the hairstyle, women’s hair no longer defines them. Femininity is placed within the soul and not a style or color. Hopefully, women have made “Ain’t I a woman?” Sojourner Truth, proud – when choosing to define their womanhood instead of society labeling them.
