If you are a fan of vintage fashion, specifically Martin Margiela’s early years, you will want to mark your calendars for the 27th of January 2025. During Haute Couture Week in Paris, in an abandoned building, over 270 items dated from 1988 to 1994, including rare designs and sketches from early designs from Maison Martin Margiela will be brought to auction by fashion expert Kerry Taylor Auctions in collaboration with Maurice Auctions. The auction titled The Early Years will give fashion enthusiasts the opportunity to own a piece of fashion history.
Not only is this the largest sale ever held around Margiela, but most of the clothing remains unworn and still has its original labels—a rarity in the world of vintage fashion.
The auction will feature several designs from Margiela’s legendary SS90 collection, such as oversized vests reimagined as dresses, structured suits with dramatic cigarette shoulders and detachable sleeves, and striking jackets crafted from painted canvas. Additional noteworthy pieces include the iconic ‘curtain’ skirts from FW91, various iterations of the classic Caban jacket, luxurious lurex and wool sweaters from FW90-91, and cassocks inspired by priests’ attire from FW92-93.
The auction is made possible by the Picozzi sisters, Angela and Elena, daughters of Graziella Picozzi. Graziella recognised Margiela’s talent early in his career and became a vital supporter, collaborating with him during his formative years. The sisters have carefully preserved these pieces for decades, believing in their cultural and artistic significance.
“The meeting between our mother Graziella and Martin Margiela was a fundamental moment for both of them,” says Angela Picozzi. “We always considered these items an important part of fashion history that ought to be protected. Over time, we realised how important it is that Martin’s talent and vision be enhanced, studied, told, and—why not—worn. That’s why we’re sharing them today. We believe the fashion world should reconnect with Margiela’s early aesthetics.”
The auction will take place on January 27, 2025, at 81 Boulevard Voltaire in Paris, with public viewings on January 25 and 26. Can’t make it to Paris? The event will also be broadcast live on platforms like Drouot and Invaluable for those unable to attend in person.
Whether you’re a collector, a historian, or simply passionate about fashion, this auction is a rare chance to engage with and appreciate Margiela’s pioneering work. It’s an opportunity to own a unique piece of fashion history that remains influential and deeply admired.
