Louis Vuitton Malles are having a moment, popping up everywhere from the streets of New York City to the runways of Paris and the ‘Malle Courrier’ exhibition in Asnières—these trunks are more than just antiques. They’ve even been turned into a chocolate bar and reissued as a bed trunk, proving their influence on Louis Vuitton’s legacy is anything but outdated.
Louis Vuitton was founded in 1854 on Rue Neuve des Capucines in Paris, revolutionizing the luggage industry with the introduction of the Malle (malle translating to “trunk” in French). Catering to Paris’ elite at a time when travel by boat and train was on the rise, Vuitton noticed a key problem: traditional round-top, leather-covered trunks were heavy, awkward to stack, and prone to unpleasant odours. His solution? The Malle. The flat-topped, rectangular design covered in canvas was a ground-breaking approach that made the trunks lighter, more durable, and easier to stack, redefining luggage for the modern traveller.
The first Malles were crafted using a light grey canvas known as Trianon. This innovative choice of colour set them apart from the darker tones typically used at the time. From 1872 until 1876, the trunks transitioned into a striped canvas. Competitors began to take note and replicate Louis Vuitton’s innovative luggage design. Thus, in 1896, the famous Louis Vuitton monogram was born and trademarked to prevent competitors from copying his design. This blend of interlocking initials and floral motifs is now an international symbol of luxury and status.
Between 1896 and 1910, Louis Vuitton created its first custom Malle for banker Albert Kahn. This bespoke piece featured three distinctive white Xs, as a personal identifier.
In 2014, Nicolas Ghesquière introduced the Petite Malle on the runway as a compact, modern reinterpretation of the original Malle. It captures the spirit of the classic design while functioning as a handbag for contemporary collectors. Featuring the same clean lines, brass hardware, and paying homage to Albert Kahn’s signature Xs in red, the Petite Malle, a staple on runways and a sought-after collector’s item, showcases how the spirit of the Malles continues to thrive.
Legacy of Craftsmanship and Innovation
The Louis Vuitton Malles are more than just luxury items—they are masterpieces of craftsmanship. Since their creation in 1854, these trunks have been meticulously handcrafted at the Asnières workshop, just outside Paris. The workshop, still operational today, uses techniques passed down through generations of artisans, ensuring that every Malle reflects and upholds the same dedication to quality as the originals. Continuing this legacy, the Petite Malles are also crafted in the Asnières workshop.
The dedication to trunk-making is even reflected in the name of LVMH—Louis Vuitton Malletier House—a nod to the brand’s origins as a maker of malles. This legacy of craftsmanship is upheld not just in the trunks themselves but in the meticulous artistry behind every piece.
Each trunk is constructed with precision, from the lightweight yet sturdy wooden frames to the expertly applied canvas and monogram detailing. The process is as much about artistry as it is functionality, making every Malle a functional work of art. This unwavering commitment to craftsmanship is a cornerstone of Louis Vuitton’s legacy and a key reason the Malles continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.
Modern Adaptations and Collaborations
While the Louis Vuitton Malles are steeped in history, they have never been confined to the past. The reissued bed trunk, originally designed in 1885 as a portable sleeping arrangement, was popular among travellers, adventurers, and nomads. It also served a practical role for military personnel in challenging conditions. In September 2024, Nicolas Ghesquière and Pharrell Williams reimagined and re-released a modern take on the design, perfectly demonstrating how these pieces continue to be relevant in today’s world.
The Petite Malle, introduced by Nicolas Ghesquière in 2014, is another perfect example. As a compact handbag, it distils the essence of the original Malle into a contemporary accessory. The Petite Malle has graced runways and become a coveted collector’s piece, showcasing how the spirit of the Malles continues to thrive.
Collaborations with cultural figures have further pushed the Malles into the spotlight. Under Pharrell Williams’ creative direction, the Malles were reimagined as part of Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, bringing their timeless design to a new generation. Virgil Abloh also drew inspiration from the Malles during his tenure at Louis Vuitton, seamlessly blending their historic appeal with modern streetwear aesthetics. These collaborations ensure the Malle remain at the forefront of both fashion and culture.
Enduring Cultural Relevance
Through the years, Louis Vuitton Malles have stood as a testament to luxury, creativity, and cultural influence. Whether showcased in exhibitions like the ‘Malle Courrier’ in Asnières or stealing the spotlight in Rihanna’s Bitch Better Have My Money music video, these trunks have always been more than just luggage. They also made appearances throughout the Sex and the City series and movie, quietly reinforcing the show’s emphasis on luxury and style. Beyond cinema and fashion, vintage Louis Vuitton Malles have become coveted home décor pieces for celebrities, adding a touch of timeless luxury to their interiors.
From their beginnings with Paris’ elite to their role in today’s pop culture, the Malles carry centuries of history while thriving in today’s fast-paced world—a perfect balance of tradition and modernity. As Louis Vuitton continues to evolve, the Malles remain an enduring symbol of the brand’s legacy.
