Olivier Rousteing’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Balmain, presented at Paris Fashion Week, signalled a shift in the brand’s aesthetic direction. Moving away from the overt opulence that has characterized previous seasons, this collection focused on sculptural knitwear, fluid draping, and bold zebra motifs. The designs incorporated elements that balanced structure and movement, introducing new textures and silhouettes while maintaining the house’s signature identity.
The runway presentation began with a hooded sweater styled with a structured leather peplum and relaxed leather trousers. This opening look set the tone for the collection, reflecting Rousteing’s interest in juxtaposing soft, voluminous shapes with controlled architectural elements. Knitwear emerged as a dominant theme, appearing in the form of draped mohair sweaters, wool jersey dresses, and oversized cocooning knitwear. The silhouettes suggested ease of movement while maintaining a sculptural quality, a departure from the heavily embellished and form-fitting styles in previous collections.
The collection’s palette remained largely monochromatic, focusing on black, white, and shades of grey. This restrained colour scheme allowed the garments’ textural elements to take precedence, with intricate pleating, ruched surfaces and embossed leather details adding visual complexity. Alongside the knitwear, structured outerwear played a key role, with oversized coats constructed from heavy wool and leather. Their exaggerated proportions created a strong contrast against the fluid-draped fabrics elsewhere in the collection.
Zebra motifs featured prominently throughout, appearing as intarsia knits, printed wool, and textured appliqués. These bold, graphic patterns introduced animalistic energy to the designs, appearing across full-length coats, high-neck dresses, and voluminous sweaters. In some cases, the motif extended beyond garments, influencing the styling of accessories and footwear. Slouchy leather boots with exaggerated folds and sculptural, twisted pumps reinforced the collection’s interplay between structure and softness.
Accessories were designed to complement the collection’s bold visual language. Chunky bracelets and sculptural talon earrings added a sense of weight and balance to the looks, with their oversized proportions echoing the garments’ exaggerated silhouettes. Beadwork was another key detail, with intricate arrangements forming abstract facial images on dresses, jackets, and shorts. This motif appeared as a direct nod to Balmain’s recent expansion into the beauty sector, aligning with the launch of the Les Éternels fragrance line.
The show’s front row reflected Balmain’s continued engagement with a diverse cultural landscape. Among the notable attendees were rapper Cardi B, known for her past collaborations with the house, and France’s First Lady, Brigitte Macron, reinforcing the brand’s broad appeal across entertainment and political spheres.
Through structural knitwear, graphic patterns, and restrained yet detailed embellishments, Rousteing’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Balmain evolved the house’s design language, focusing on materiality and form while integrating references to contemporary fashion and cultural shifts.
