Alaïa’s FW25 show was a study in volume and control, reinforcing Pieter Mulier’s ability to evolve the house’s sculptural codes. Presented at the brand’s Paris headquarters, the setting was kept raw, allowing the focus to remain on the clothes.
Mulier played with exaggerated silhouettes and sharp construction. Hooded bodysuits framed the face, structured coats curved around the body, and sculpted skirts floated away from the waist. Padded, cocoon-like silhouettes added an almost surreal quality, enveloping the body while maintaining Alaïa’s signature precision. Their smooth, curved lines stood in contrast to the collection’s sharper tailoring and delicate pleating. Fur appeared in outerwear, amplifying shape and texture. Movement was central—pleated skirts hovered around the legs, sheer second-skin tops clung to the body, and woven details created structure without stiffness. Fringe elements added another dimension, enhancing the collection’s sculptural quality.
The styling leaned into unexpected combinations. Grey socks were paired with red-heeled sandals, adding a subtle contrast against a yellow dress. Accessories remained minimal, with slim belts and sculptural bags complementing the looks.
The collection’s colour palette extended beyond neutrals. Deep burgundy, cobalt blue, and mustard yellow were used with restraint, appearing in draped jersey pieces and fitted knitwear. Alongside the structured tailoring, softer silhouettes in fluid fabrics balanced the sharper edges.
“This Alaïa collection was born from a reflection on history, geography, sculpture, and always on women,” Mulier said. “They are all part of the garments, embedded within them.”
Sculpture remained a reference throughout, not just in the garments but in the show itself. Dutch artist Mark Manders’ bronze works were placed throughout the space, reinforcing the house’s relationship with art and form. The collection focused on silhouette and construction, staying true to Alaïa’s legacy while refining it for the present.
